Wednesday, March 16, 2005

Up North: Michigan's Flavorful Vacationland

The New York Times: Travel

Source for some of Earthy's great products, from morels to wild leeks (ramps)

From Tapawingo (set amid gardens of rudbeckia and giant alliums, overlooking a crystalline lake reflecting stands of firs, will celebrate its 20th anniversary in May. It has evolved from a modest if excellent regional restaurant into a place of international stature, serving focused, sophisticated dishes like a bracingly refreshing cold melon soup with a kaffir lime and chili ice. Main courses run to items like a rack of rabbit with veal sweetbreads, spaetzle and mustard greens, and seared sea scallops with an English pea emulsion, golden tomatoes and bacon.) to Art's Tavern(Kurt Luedtke, the journalist-turned-screenwriter who won an Academy Award for ''Out of Africa,'' favors the surf-and-turf at Art's in Glen Arbor: a quarter-pound of batter-fried smelt and a hamburger, for $7.25. ''Art's is listed in the phone book and on its only two legal documents as Art's Tavern,'' Mr. Luedtke reports, ''which substantially overstates the matter.'' Regulars call it Mary's, and the owner is named Tim.)

With a tip of the hat to local wines and wineries (of note, those of Larry Mawby and Black Star)
"Too far north, you say? Much too cold? Not really. The 45th Parallel cuts through the vineyards here, as it does through the Willamette Valley in Oregon, the M├ędoc and Hermitage regions of France, and Piemonte in Italy -- several of the world's very best wine-producing areas."


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